Every room in every home needs a touch of wonder! This unicorn pillow sewing pattern will sprinkle magic everywhere like it’s confetti!
Let your imagination loose with all the beautiful trims, fabrics scraps, ribbons, and bedazzle you can get your hands on. All the extra details will transform this pillow into pure delight. This pillow is suitable for woven fabrics and perfect for beginner sewistas. The FREE design includes pattern pieces and the full tutorial with step-by-step instructions for a 10 x 15 inch pillow.
We’re starting our blog tours for the year with a twist!
All the RP patterns you are about to encounter have been assigned “Double Duty”; the sewista-bloggers who are your guides on this tour of blogs have taken a pattern and sewed it up as intended during drafting… BUT then, they’ve seen another way to approach the patterns and have come up with a twist…
Are you intrigued? Look out for this image on each blog so you know you’re in the right place.
Please visit all the stops on the Rebecca Page Double Duty Blog Tour for more great inspiration:
We will be giving away seven one-month subscriptions. Each one-month subscription prize contains:
For a chance to win a One-Month Subscription, please comment on the blogs each day and enter the Rafflecopter giveaway
Find out more about the subscription here: SUBSCRIPTIONS
Sometimes, the most productive thing you can do is relax! And this relaxation robe sewing pattern is exactly what you need for relaxing to the maxing.
Curl up on the couch in front of the telly together, snuggled up in your cosy dressing gowns. Chill out next to a swimming pool or on the beach in your cossie cover ups (and sunscreen). Ease into your days with your bathrobes draped around you like warm hugs. Whichever way you plan to use the Relaxation Robe, complete comfort is yours with this pattern.
Your fabric choices will take you from winter cuddles, to cool breeze summer silkiness.
Does it get any better than that?
For a girl who lives in skinny jeans and leggings, the very idea of the wide-legged magnificence that is the Posy Pleated Pants sewing pattern shouldn’t sit well with me. But it does! Because WOW!
These trousers are truly fierce! Bold femininity and flowing, flattering lines are what wardrobe dreams are made of (mine, anyway). Can we just take a moment to marvel at how lovely they are?
And then let’s take another to soak up just some of the Posy #pinspo out there: Wide-Legged Pleated Pants
Elegance, comfort, practicality, and pure prettiness: POSY!
Waaaay back in the day when I was in primary school we had an annual dress-up-as-what-you-want-to-be-when-you’re-older day. The dressing up bit always came down to what was available or the easiest outfit to cobble together at the last minute; I was that kid who didn’t hand over newsletters until after the event due to head-buried-in-book syndrome. There were a load of nth hour scrambles.
My projected career paths ranged from marine biologist to circus gymnast, fashion designer to chiropractor, painter to doctor, and scientist to lawyer. I ALWAYS circled around back to writer. But almost every year I went as an artist. I had a TON of paint-splattered clothing and even a specific uniform for art days because it was basically paint.
Well, if a lab coat pattern of this awesomeness level (it’s been thumbed up by an actual forensic scientist who wears one every day!) had existed during my childhood, things could’ve been different. I’m not suggesting I would’ve become a doctor (but maybe I would’ve… a writing sewing doctor ?) or that I wouldn’t have ended up where I am now (I’m sure I would’ve since I always wanted to be a something or other OR A WRITER* and right here is pretty fabulous), but one thing is certain; my school uniform and half my wardrobe wouldn’t have been covered in Jackson Pollock-esque flashes of colour.
The FREE lab coat sewing pattern is intended to add some extra wow to dress up collections around the world, for imagination-stimulating play, and perhaps some career daydreaming, but the magic lies in the surprise use too! This thing makes for an exceptional artist’s smock!
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*A writer with an interest in sewing. I am not making this up for the sake of this blog post; I have always wanted to write and have always wanted to sew. No matter where the winds blew my interests. And now look; I’m a writing sewista!
In my home we have discovered that shopping for hoodies for the male variety falls into the same category as shopping for jeans for ladies; it usually ends in tears and a nervous tic. The tic is mine as Husband says “no” to every possible suggestion that comes his way.
Ready-to-wear hoodies (all clothing, in fact) certainly have their place if you have a build that fits. If you happen to not, well – please see above…
To save me some eye rolling and exasperated “WHYYYYYYYY?”s, a Pin board was created with some examples of what MIIIIIIGHT be considered acceptable IF we can track them down/ they fit/ don’t have to sell a kidney to afford: Hoodie Pinspo (I may have snuck that one with the leather-look sleeves in when Husband wasn’t looking).
With this list of potentials (you may notice they’re all fairly similar) you’d think Husband has found at least one to call his very own… that would be incorrect. It’s come close; a few even made it home with us then seemed to shrink/ develop scratchy bits/ fade/ strangle him when he sneezes overnight. So now I have a collection of house hoodies (which I’m happy about, by the way).
There is one, though, that Husband loves and adores. It is faded beyond recognition and is falling apart. And it’s one of those hoodies whose origin remains a mystery (you know how some hoodies get stolen-swapped-traded and no one can tell you where they started life?). It is not a hoodie we have been able to replace.
But then… *drum roll*… look at these hoodies I can recreate with this new pattern!
Before today, no pattern offering has been deemed acceptable. And then there was the Comfy Cowl… it was as if angels started singing and rainbows danced out of the computer when he laid eyes on this pattern. Those very same eyes misted up with tears of hope because… FINALLY!
I look forward to stealing these and claiming them as my own. After all, that is the unspoken rule with husbands’ hoodies.
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Come join us for a trench coat sew along…. we will be working our way through the Taylor Trench Coat and we would love for you to join us!
If you’re new to sew alongs, you’re in for a treat! They’re so much fun you’ll want to do them ALL! I’ll be sewing two versions of the Taylor via video. One will be very plain following the easiest options (advanced beginner level). The other will be more complex with aaallllll the options and trimmings! You can either join in live, or save the videos to watch later.
If you already have the Taylor Trench Coat pattern, the sew along is totally free. You just have to print your pattern, and gather your fabric and supplies.
If you don’t have your pattern yet, there’s a discount code in the sew along group so you can grab it now and get ready!
Soooo what are you waiting for? Come join us!
STEP 1 – Join the RP Sew Alongs group
STEP 2 – Grab your pattern using the discount code in the group
STEP 3 – Print your pattern and prep your fabric!
Shirring is a sewing technique that can be used to gather fabric, using elastic thread sewn in parallel rows. This is a great alternative to the elastic back found in the tutorial for the children’s Patsy Party dress.
In this tutorial we will be showing you how to adjust the Patsy Party dress bodice, so that it has a shirred back. The skirt/jumpsuit is sewn as per the original or add on pattern tutorial.
You will need:
We will be using the same bodice pattern pieces for the main fabric and lining, but we will be joining the center back and side back pieces together to create one back piece for shirring.
If you are new to shirring, first we need to prepare the bobbin. It is your bobbin that the shirring elastic goes into. You use regular thread on the top part of your sewing machine.
Take an empty bobbin and gently start winding the elastic around it by hand. Leave the end of the elastic hanging off and just hold it out of the way. Wind several times around the bobbin.
Once you have wound the elastic over itself a couple of times, you will find it secure enough that you can cut the trailing piece from the beginning off.
Continue to wind the rest of your bobbin with the elastic. Go gently and slowly, being careful not to pull or stretch the elastic as you wind.
Stop when the bobbin is about ¾ inch full so that the elastic doesn’t bulge out over the edge of the bobbin.
Put your bobbin into your machine as you would normally.
If you have a top loading machine, check that the elastic is running through the tension notch just like regular thread would. If it is not running through there you will find the elastic makes squiggly lines on the back of the fabric and it won’t gather nicely.
Continue to set your machine up as you normally would when you change your bobbin thread.
For most top-loading machines you will find it easier to get it all set up and put the bobbin cover on last, once the thread is up under the presser foot. If you have a side loading machine, just do things as you normally would.
Before you go any further, I highly recommend you test your shirring elastic by sewing a scrap of fabric to make sure it is set up how you want it.
On some sewing machines you will find your regular straight stitch will be fine. On some machines you will need to lengthen your stitch slightly. Not all the way, but just a little. Practice until you are happy with how your stitching looks.
Make sure to use a locking or back stitch at the beginning of each row. If you don’t do this, the elastic can slip out along the row and unravel your stitches.
If this is your first-time doing shirring, I also recommend you practice several rows of shirring on a scrap piece of fabric before you do your actual shirring on the garment. This is much easier than having to unpick it if you make a mistake!
NOTE – If you make a mistake, the easiest way to unpick shirring elastic is to snip through the elastic at the beginning right next to your locking stitch. Repeat at the other end. Then pull out enough elastic for you to get a hold of it with your fingers. Next, pull the elastic all the way through. The thread on the other side will just fall off once the elastic has been removed.
NOTE – Shirring elastic is much, much thicker than thread. This means your full bobbin won’t last as long as a typical bobbin. Please double check before starting each line of shirring that you will have enough elastic on your bobbin to complete that row.
While shirring can be done through two layers of fabric, we will be shirring the main and lining fabric separately for this tutorial. This will allow us to have a beautiful finish on both the outside and inside of the dress. Since we will be enclosing the elastic thread between the layers of fabric, there won’t be any scratchy elastic touching the skin and we will have happy and comfortable girls!
Take one of the back pieces you just made and make a line 5/8 inch down from the top edge using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. This will be the guide for your first row of shirring. Starting ⅝ inch down, will mean that after the top edge is sewn together with a ½ inch seam allowance, your first row of shirring will end up about ⅛ inch from the top edge of the bodice.
Continue stitching more rows below the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect. You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish.
We’ve created this look by spacing the shirred rows ¼ inch apart from each other. By doing the rows this distance apart, you can use the edge of your presser foot (or as a marking on your presser foot depending on the model) as a guide. Keep the previous row of shirring lined up with the edge of the foot as you sew, and you will get perfectly straight lines!
Keep sewing rows of shirring until you have about 1 inch of fabric left on the bottom of your back piece.
Once you’ve finished stitching your rows, press with a steam iron. This will make the shirring tighten up and gather more.
Repeat the shirring process for your main back piece.
Follow the original Patsy tutorial to sew the front of your bodice together, sewing the side front pieces to either side of the center front piece. Do this for both your main and lining fabrics.
Next, with the right sides together, stitch the shirred back main piece to the side front main pieces using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Repeat for the front bodice lining and back lining pieces.
Take your main bodice and pin the straps, right sides together. Baste in place.
Turn the main bodice so that it is wrong side out, and then place the bodice lining inside the main bodice.
Your bodices should now be right sides together.
Pin all around the top edge of the bodice. Since the back is gathered from our shirring, you may find it easier to stretch the fabric and then add a pin or clip.
Stitch all around the top edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Your stitching should be about ⅛ inch above the first row of shirring.
Turn your bodice right side out and press.
Turn your bodice wrong way out. Flip the lining up out the way and press a ½ inch seam allowance along the waist edge of your bodice lining. Again, it may be easier to press if you stretch the fabric as you go.
Choose the skirt you will be making from the Patsy Party dress pattern or the Add-on pack and construct the skirt/jumpsuit according to the pattern tutorial.
With the skirt/jumpsuit wrong side out and the bodice right side out, place the bodice inside the skirt, keeping the bodice lining flipped down and out the way. Matching the raw edges of the main bodice waist to the raw edges of the skirt/jumpsuit and pin in place. You may need to stretch out the shirring on the back to make it easier to pin them together.
The main bodice and skirt/jumpsuit should now be right sides together.
Stitch the main bodice to the skirt using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Flip the bodice up and the bodice lining up and over. The lining will be wrong sides together with the main bodice.
Pin the bodice lining to the skirt, all the way around the waist of the dress, catching the skirt seam allowance. The raw edges should all be hidden.
Use a slipstitch to sew the rest of the bodice lining to the skirt seam allowance, using the same technique as steps 6.1 to 6.2 in the pattern tutorial.
Follow step 7 from the main pattern tutorial to attach the straps.
Follow step 8 from the main pattern tutorial to hem the skirt or refer to the add on tutorial for hemming the add on options.
So, you have a strapless dress and you want to make sure you don’t spend the entire evening pulling this gorgeous dress up and back into place. That’s not classy. One of our favorite suggestions for adding just a bit more support to your strapless dress is a waist stay. This is typically a ribbon that is installed in your dress right at your waistline to help provide some stability to prevent just this problem.
The following tutorial works for any strapless dress (like the Patsy)! If you have a favorite ready-to-wear that just doesn’t quite stay where you want it, or if you’ve spent the time to make a dress exactly to your measurements and you just want a little extra assurance, give this a try!
You’ll do this at your narrowest, or if you’re quite rectangular, where you bend if you tip to the side (think I’m a little teapot). To this measurement, add two inches.
Cut your ribbon to this length and head to your sewing machine. You’ll fold one end of your ribbon to the wrong side by ½ inch and finger press. Repeat this, to enclose the raw end of the ribbon. Topstitch along this edge. Repeat for the second end of the ribbon:
I love doing this on my machine, because it is so much faster than hand sewing, but however you prefer is perfect! It can be hard to hold those tiny little things, so I use my sewing tweezers to keep them in place until I get a stitch or two in. I set my machine to a zig-zag stitch with 0 set for stitch length and the appropriate width for my hook and eye sets:
Stitch a few stitches to really lock it in place and jump into the second one:
In order to match up the hooks with the eyes, so it will close properly, I like to pull the other end of the ribbon around, making sure it isn’t twisted and use what you’ve already sewn to match up where you need to be:
Now grab your dress so we can get this installed. You need to mark the quarter points of the ribbon as well as the dress along your waistline. Most strapless dresses have a seam at waist level. Match your dress center front with the center of your ribbon. Make sure the ribbon is also centered horizontally over the waistline. At the top and bottom of the ribbon, tack the ribbon to the dress. Make sure to only stitch through the lining so your stitches don’t show on the outside of the dress.
This will have zero ease or slight negative ease to help provide extra support to your garment. When you are ready to wear your dress, you’ll need to fasten the hook and eye on your waist stay before zipping it up and enjoying a worry-free night with a no-slip dress!
It’s true! Patsy really is the party dress sewing pattern of your dreams!
The beautiful, vintage-styled dress has a princess-line bodice, an extremely full and twirly tea-length skirt, and optional skirt overlay for extra glamour. To make your day even better, the original Patsy is FREE!
And then the Patsy Add On takes the original Patsy and shoots her loveliness into the stratosphere with a collection of exceptional options that make an already special dress, even better!
Just look at these gorgeous creations! Each of these has been made using the add on pattern.
The free Patsy party dress sewing pattern is simply twirly gorgeousness! The ladies features an invisible centre-back zip and includes optional gathered off-the-shoulder sleeves, while the girls features an elasticated back bodice and shoulder straps. The ladies’ sizes also has optional boning and interlining with step-by-step instructions on how to create a beautifully-fitted bodice.
The princess seams, fitted bodice, and fully-wonderful skirt are made for the wovens in your stash! Silk, sateen, velvet, and all the other woven loveliness to set your heart aflutter.
Patsy may seem like a daunting sew, but don’t be deterred! With the incredibly-detailed tutorial, super support in the Facebook group, and the princess seam bust-adjustment tutorial available if you need it, this pattern will teach you some new skills and give you the confidence to announce “I made it!”.
My brain is swirling with all the possibilities of Patsy! If you used more casual fabric, like linen or cotton, you could certainly add some lovely summer dresses (and a jumpsuit) to your me-made wardrobe for relaxed dressing. My Patsy Inspo pin board grows a few extra pictures every day! Some ideas may not be immediately obvious, but with some minor (maybe major in some cases) hacking, creativity, and some beads, the Patsy options are ENDLESS! Have a look: PATSY PINSPO
For even more inspiration, have a look at the PATSY GALLERY on Facebook. Just wow!