French Seam Pockets Tutorial and Pattern

Pockets!! I love adding them to everything I make. They are such a cute little detail, and pretty handy for storing all sorts of fun trinkets, especially the ones that kids like to stash. Today I’m going to show you how to add side seam pockets to your patterns. And so they have that nice finish you expect from Mummykins & Me patterns, they will have French seams. Plus, there is a free pocket pattern included for sizes newborn through to adult!

I added my pockets to the Teatime Romper, but you could add them to any bottoms that have side seams, such as the Pretty Party Dress or Easy Peasy Skirt. So, let’s get started!

Download the pattern pieces & full tutorial here

First, download, print and cut out your pattern piece. Make sure that you are not scaling and are printing at 100%. Check your 1″ square to be sure it printed correctly.

1. If you are adding the pockets to shorts or pants, first sew the left and right pieces of the shorts or pants together at the crotch, so your front is one piece and your back is one piece. Do not attach the backs to the fronts yet. Determine where you would like your pockets to be, taking into consideration any seam allowance along the waist and bottom. Place your pocket’s with the flat side along the outside edge of your bottom front piece with wrong sides together. Pin and sew your pocket along the straight edge using 1/2 the seam allowance the pattern calls for. So for example, the Teatime Romper has a seam allowance of 1/2″, so I am using a 1/4″ seam allowance. After you have sewn the pocket on, trim your seam allowance in half.

2. Flip your pocket over so right sides are together and press well along your seam. Sew again along the edge of the pocket also with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

You will now have a fold on the top and bottom of your pocket.

3. Snip this piece parallel to the top of your pocket, and even with the edge, so that the fabric now lies flat. Don’t cut past the pocket. Repeat on the bottom. Flip your pocket out, and press your seam well.

Repeat  steps 1-3 on the other side of the shorts, and also on your back piece to attach the other pockets, making sure the pockets match up equal distances from the top.

4. Once you have your pockets attached to the front and back pieces, we will put it all together. Place your front and back pieces with wrong sides together, matching up the pockets and also the top and bottom or your shorts or skirt. Pin.

5. Starting at the top, sew 1/4″ (or half your seam allowance) down the side until you are 1/4″ onto the top of the pocket.

6. Lift your presser foot, pivot so you are facing down the pocket, drop your presser foot, and continue around the pocket, still sewing with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

7. Once you are 1/4″ onto your bottom piece again. Pivot again until you are once again heading down the side. Sew to the bottom. Trim your seam in half.

8. Flip your shorts so that right sides are now together. Press well. And again match up the tops and bottoms of the shorts and pockets.

9. Sew down the side of the shorts, around the pocket and back down the side, all with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press well.

Repeat on the other side and finish your pattern as instructed. Now you will have some awesome pockets!