Hi everyone! Today, we will sew the shoulders and sides and I am going to show you an alternative way to sew the arms in.
Note: I am sewing the hoodie on my serger, but you can certainly sew on a regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch. If you do, stitch using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and trim the seam to 1/4 inch.
Optional: finish your seams with a serger or finish the seam on your regular sewing machine with a zig zag stitch or mock overlock. For more details about sewing knits on a regular sewing machine, read DAY 3 of the sew along.
Pattern method: set in sleeve
This is the method that was used in the original instructions of the pattern. Use the method you are the most comfortable with, both are great!
First, place the FRONT and BACK right sides together and stitch/serge the shoulders and side seams using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seams toward the back.
Fold the SLEEVE in half, right sides together. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Then, turn the sleeve right side out and mark the quarter points with pins. On the smaller sizes, you can mark only the halves (arm seam and top of sleeve cap). Mark the quarters or halves of the armhole on the bodice the same way with pins.
With the bodice wrong side out and the sleeve right side out, place the sleeve into the armscye matching the shoulder seam with the top pin and the arm seam with the side seam. Optional: continue to pin all around the armscye. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.
If you are using a knit fabric that doesn’t stretch much, you might need to ease stitch the sleeve first before inserting it. Ease stitching will help distribute the extra ease of the sleeve around the armhole.
To do this, sew a row of basting stitches (long loose stitches) just inside the 3/8 inch seam allowance along the sleeve caps (the curve of the sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting stitches in between the seam allowance and the raw edge. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end. Leave a thread tail at both ends. Pin the seam, right sides together, starting at the underarm seam. When you reach your basting stitches, pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the armhole of the bodice. Sew the seam with the tiny gathers side on top making sure that there are no puckers. The arm will show very small gathers inside the seam allowance and none outside. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second arm.
Alternative option: sewing the arms flat
First, place the front and back right sides together and stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press towards the back.
Open the shoulders flat on your table and match the middle point of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam right sides facing. Pin.
Match up both corners of the sleeve to the sides and pin.
Ease the sleeve around the armscye and pin. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Finally, with the fabric right side to right side, pin the sleeve and side seam making sure to match the underarm seam. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and press.
That’s it for the shoulders, arms and sides, I hope your sewing is going well! Tomorrow, I will be back with the hood, cuffs, band and finishing touches. See you soon!
Remember you can still buy the pattern on sale for all duration of the sew along. It’s available in child’s and ladies’ sizes as well as in a bundle. Buy your pattern HERE.