Hi and welcome to day 4 of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along! Now that we talked about size, fit, fabrics and tips, we are ready to get started! If you missed the previous posts, first check the welcome post for details about our sponsors and prizes.
*Note: I will show you the steps using a child’s hoodie but if you are sewing for yourself or another adult, all the steps are the same.
Today, we will sew the optional pocket on the front of the hoodie. There are a few things you will want to think about. Do you want your pocket lined or not? Do you want to use a contrasting fabric? If you are using your main fabric, do you want to match the print on the front? Do you actually want a pocket at all?
Cut your pocket
LINED and UNLINED options
To find the correct position to place the pocket you can use your FRONT pattern piece and transfer the markings with a washable pen or chalk. There are many ways to do this but I like to punch a hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark the fabric.
Another very simple way would be to find your middle front by folding your FRONT piece in half and press. Mark the fold with a pin. Repeat to locate the pocket middle point. Line the pocket bottom edge with the front bottom edge aligning the pins.
Matching the print
If you want to match the print on the pocket and body, you need to decide this before cutting into your fabric. First cut your FRONT piece on the fold, wrong side to wrong side, and keep it folded. Move your folded edge on your fabric until your print is matched.
Align your pocket piece facing the front piece and trace around the pocket with a washable pen or chalk.
Remove the front piece and reverse the pocket piece so it’s now creating a complete pocket. Trace around the pocket and cut.
You should now have a perfect matching pocket.
Pocket: Unlined option
If your fabric is very soft and cozy on the wrong side like a stretch sweatshirt fleece, you might want to keep your pocket unlined.
First, omit cutting a pocket lining and cut 1 pocket in the fabric you want to use (main or contrasting fabric).
Optional: before cutting your fabric, add 3/8 inch to the seam allowance (side, diagonal and top edge). I would recommend this step especially with heavier fabrics because it will make the turn under from the next step much easier and allow for more stability when topstitching.
Fold the diagonal edge 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press.
From the right side of the pocket, topstitch both diagonals at 1/8 and ¼ inch from the edge. Do not stitch all the way to the edge. Start and stop about ¼ inch from the folded edges so you can later join your stitches all around. Use a twin needle if you wish to sew your two rows at the same time.
Tip: If you use a twin needle, do not backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitches. Pull the thread under and tie a knot with all three threads. Do not cut your thread too close to the knot or it might untied. This method will give you a much nicer finish!
*Note: We are topstiching the pocket the same for both lined and unlined option.
Turn the top and sides 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press
Pocket: Lined Option
If you choose to line your pocket, place your pocket and pocket lining with their right sides together. Sew all around the sides, diagonals and top, leaving the bottom of the pocket open.
Clip the corners off and trim the seam allowance in half. Be careful to not cut through your stitches!
Turn the pocket right side out and press carefully.
* Topstitch both diagonal sides the same way as the unlined option.
For lined and unlined options:
Pin or baste you pocket on your front. Instead of pins, I personally like to use a wash-away double sided tape such as Wonder Tape. If your fabric is thin and tend to stretch while you sew, the tape will help stabilise and prevent your fabric from waving while holding your pocket in place.
Topstitch your pocket sides and top. Try to start your stitches exactly where you stopped when topstitching the diagonals. The more precise you are, the more your topstitching will appear continuous all around the pocket.
Voila! Congratulations on stitching a beautiful pocket! Come back tomorrow, we will assemble the shoulders and sides and sew the arms in two ways.
Grab the Comfy Cowl Hoodie pattern on sale until October 28 HERE!