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DIY Art Smock Hack – How to Turn the Lucy Dress Into an Art Smock

Hi! Today we are going to take the Lucy dress and make a DIY art smock. I’ll be showing you how to do it unlined. but if you want to line it you can follow the pattern directions for doing so with a few little add ons shown here.

First, let’s talk about material options. Since these will be used for art projects I would suggest using a home decor weight thicker cotton woven (which is what I used in the tutorial. You could also use a laminated cotton or oilcloth if you need it to be waterproof. I find the home decor cotton holds up well to marker and paints (as in they don’t go through easily to the other side) and it is a fairly inexpensive option as well.

After you have your pattern pieces cut, we are going to make pockets. I made one big pocket by just cutting 2 pieces of the fabric in a pocket shape and stitching right sides together, then clip corners and turn, top stitch along the top getting your opening closed. and attaching to the front of the art smock by sewing around the sides and bottom. I also did a long rectangle pocket for holding a couple brushes in. For this pocket I just folded under the 3 sides and sewed to the front and then sewed a line down the middle of the pocket to divide it for 2 brushes.

Now sew your shoulder seams attaching the backs to the front, open up your seams and we will be attaching bias tape to the armholes. I prefer the sandwich method here as it is an art smock, and if you are using a laminated or oilcloth fabric sandwich method will be your friend!

Once that is done we are going to attach bias tape to the sides and around the neckline. If you are using oilcloth or laminated fabric you will also want to attach it along the bottom, So I hope you have a lot of bias tape!

Since I used home decor weight, I simply folded and hemmed the bottom of the art smock.

Now attach a snap (or button if you prefer) for keeping the smock closed. I always choose snaps because buttons get tangled in her hair so very easily.

Easy peasy and ready to art! Now I cannot wait for summer to happen so I can make Lucy as a crop top for the kids!

 

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Woven Headband Pattern and Tutorial

 

Got scraps? This kid’s headband pattern is the perfect way to use them up! Even better… it’s fast and cute. You could make matching headbands for any outfit!

This will fit newborn to 12 years. To make for teens and adults, you can just adjust the length of the casing and elastic.

Sizes included are:

Extra small (approx newborn to 12 months) – 14-15 inches / 35-43 cm
Small (approx 12-24 months) – 15-17 inches / 38-43 cm
Medium (approx 3 – 6 years) – 17-19 inches / 43-48 cm
Large (approx 6-12 years) – 19-21 inches / 48-53 cm

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New Mommy and Me Tie Neck Blouse or Dress

Introducing the Madison Blouse! It’s a beautifully finished blouse with a gorgeous fit.

The bundle including girls newborn to 12 years sizing PLUS the ladies XXS to 5XL sizing… and a bonus FREE matching 18 inch doll pattern. It’s matching heaven!

Get the Madison Blouse bundle here: http://rebecca-page.com/product/mommy-and-me-tie-neck-blouse-pattern/

With dress or blouse length, collar or tie, faux bow for the collar option for baby/child sizes, and short/long/puff sleeves there’s enough options to make lots of different looks.

Plus it’s all hidden seams (so pretty!) on a sewing machine only but if you want a faster sew, there’s also a serger option.

The techniques used are advanced beginner upwards, but the pattern instructions are very thorough with lots of tips so anyone can follow them.

Sizes are baby, girls, ladies, plus size and even a tiny 18 inch dolls pattern (ahhh!).

 

Get the Madison Blouse bundle here: http://rebecca-page.com/product/mommy-and-me-tie-neck-blouse-pattern/

Happy sewing!

 

Rebecca & The Mummykins Team xoxo

*Wovens only. Not suitable for knits/stretch.

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Free Pillow Bed Tutorial

This tutorial will teach you how to make a pillow bed. I chose to make the cases envelope style so that you can easily remove the pillows for washing, but they won’t fall out like they would with a traditional style pillowcase. There are also handles for easy carrying!

Here’s how to make one of your own:

Download a copy of the pattern pieces and full tutorial here:

What You’ll Need

  • The full tutorial with pattern pieces & cutting chart (it’s free! just click & download)
  • 4 yards of woven fabric (I chose 4 different coordinating prints and a solid white for the back)
  • 4 standard sized pillows
  • Coordinating thread
  • Poly-fill (for optional puffy bow)
  • Iron
  • Sewing machine
  • Cutting mat and rotary cutter or scissors

 

I was able to use my scraps to make these cute details!

To create the Pieced Cover, sew the two middle pieces together, and then sew the outer pieces on either side of the now joined middle pieces. Finish seams and press them to the right.

To create the Puffy Bow, place the outer pieces right sides together and pin. Starting in the middle of one of the long edges, sew around the entire bow leaving a 2″ gap for turning and stuffing. Clip corners and turn right side out. Stuff full with poly-fill. Sew the opening closed. For the bow center, I suggest a stretchy knit or elastic so that I could get it over the stuffed bow. Fold bow center in half right sides together, pin, and sew along the long edge. Turn right side out and move the seam to the center and press flat. With the seam facing down match the short ends, pin and sew. Turn right side out and stretch it over the main bow so that it is in the center. It will naturally cinch the center in, but you may want to pinch it a little to get the perfect bow shape.

 

Construction

1. Press one of the handle pieces in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Then, open the fabric back up with the wrong side facing up. Next press each of the long edges toward the crease that you have just created so that they meet in the middle. Now, press it in half again lengthwise. Sew ” from the edge on both of the long sides. Repeat with the other handle and set handles aside.

2. Place the top front section right side up and place the next section right side down on top of it. Pin and sew together along the bottom edge. Using the same method, attach the remaining front sections together. Finish the seams and press them down. Set aside.

3. Each of the back sections will be made of two pieces to create an envelope style cover.

Using the same method used in step 2, sew four of the back section pieces together, finish the seams and press them up this time. Repeat with the remaining four back section pieces.

Now, hem the right side of one of the strips by pressing the edge to the wrong side ½” and then pressing it another ½” so that the raw edge is enclosed in the fold. Sew ” from the top edge of the fold. Now hem the left side of the remaining strip of back section pieces using the same method.

4. Place the front of the pillow bed right side up and place the left back section strip right side down on top of it matching up the raw edges. Now, carefully match the seams, pin and sew. Repeat with the right back section piece and finish the seams.

5. Find the center of top section of the front of the pillow bed and mark with a pin. Measure 1.5” from each side of the pin and mark each one with a pin. Line up one of the raw edges of the handle with the top of the section of the pillow bed where you placed the pin on the left. Pin in place. Now repeat with the other end of the handle with the pin on the right side. Baste the handle in place. Use the same method to attach the remaining handle to the bottom of the pillow bed.

6. With the pillow bed right side up, fold the left back section piece so that it is right sides together with the front section of the pillow bed. Pin in place along the top and bottom. Repeat with the right back section piece (the hemmed edges of the back sections pieces should overlap), sew and finish the seams.

7. Turn the bed right side out and press well. Pin the front to the back along the seams between each section. It is important to make sure they the seams are lined up really well. Now stitch in the ditch along each of the three dividing seams. If you want to add the puffy bow, tack it in place at the base of the top handle now.

8. Insert the pillows and give it to a child or pet to enjoy!

 

Check out the FREE Animal Pillows pattern and tutorial to make matchy pieces and complete the cuteness! <3

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Brand new video sew along class for the Alice

Ever fancied sewing the Alice dress? We’re so excited to now have a full video sew along class series where  you can sew along with us.

 

The Alice - a-line reversible dress pattern & tutorial for beginner sewing

 

Watch below or <a href=”https://www.youtube.com/user/rebeccapage1/”>subscribe here</>:

 

Class 1/5

Class 2/5

Class 3/5

Class 4/5

Class 5/5

 

Happy sewing!

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HACK: The Teatime Romper – Pleat Detail


Hey all! Jeanine here today to show you how I got the pleat detail front on the top!

There is the easy way – and the much harder and more confusing way that you use if you are tight on fabric and home bound thanks to a blizzard.

First off, you’ll need the Teatime Romper sewing pattern. If you haven’t got it yet, you can get it from – http://rebecca-page.com/product/romper-pdf-sewing-pattern/.

Let’s start with the very easy way to get pleat room – Add 3-4 inches to the top of the pattern piece – or more if you want a LOT of pleats… but honestly since the Teatime Romper is a gathered front I think keeping the pleats to just a handful is optimal.

and then you fold and iron, fold and iron until you get down to where the romper front is the height of the original pattern piece.

**I strongly recommend sewing the pleats down on the inside – where you won’t see the stitching from the front so they don’t go all poofed out when you thread the elastic through for the front.

Then do a basting stitch along the sides of your pleats to keep them down.

The hard way is cutting a separate rectangle that is 5 inches tall, pleating it down to 3 and cutting 3″ off the top of the bodice front. Did that confuse you? It made my brain hurt just trying to type it – but at the time I was able to visualize it so easily. I took pics since it shows the pleating cleaner.

And then basted down the sides and sewn on.

With a little trim to hide the fact that I added on a section for the pleats instead of doing things the proper way and cutting it longer to pleat. Just goes to show you there is indeed more than one way to (metaphorically) skin a cat… What a horrible saying that is …. If you have a better one for me to use – please – leave a comment!

Once again, just to be clear, sew those pleats down!!!! Otherwise they will become lost once the elastic is in place!

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A little Xmas Freebie for you 💖

A little bit of festive love has just arrived at the Mummykins and Me PDF Pattern Group!

Introducing this year’s Mummykins Big Xmas Freebie, The Paris Party Dress <3

Top is knit/stretch fabrics only. It’s semi-fitted and has a beautifully bound neckline. Options include: scoop & boat neck options, crop or full length hem, and short, ¾ or full length sleeves.

Skirt is woven fabrics only and has all the raw edges hidden. It has a center back zip closure with either buttons or snaps. Featuring large box pleats, high or regular waistband, optional pockets and above knee, knee or tea length options.

Comes in girls sizes newborn to 12 years, and ladies sizes XXS to 5XL.

Plus, there’s a jam-packed add-on!

Add-on is $6.50 and includes options of a simple t-shirt neckline, puff sleeves, gathered cap sleeves, lace top overlay, elastic back waistband (no zip), attaching the skirt & top together so it’s a dress, lining for the skirt, a tulle petticoat, and a ribbon hemline.

          

The main ladies & child’s pattern is FREE to our Facebook group members only. Coupon code is in the pinned post.

Join the Mummykins and Me Facebook Group HERE and get it FREE!

Get the add-on at http://rebecca-page.com/product/add-on-elastic-waist-pattern/.

          

Happy sewing & lots of festive love from the Mummykins Team xx

Here’s what some of our testers had to say…

“This is an incredibly flattering outfit with a classic and elegant shape which suits a wide variety of body shapes. Incredibly well written instructions helps you achieve a highly professional finish with ease. It is not simply a pattern you will make again, this is a pattern you will use to fill your entire wardrobe! The binding was a new method for me but I loved it! I also loved how clear the instructions were resulting in quite possibly the most perfect box pleats and lapped zip I have ever created (and I didn’t have to seam rip once!)” – Amy Myers, www.instagram.com/sew_many_adventures

“The finished skirt makes me feel accomplished! I want to show it off to everyone. I’ve been telling people that your patterns really make me feel like a great seamstress, even though I haven’t been doing this very long. I always feel accomplished because the finished product is always beautiful.” – Tricia Cerda

“This is seriously my new favorite skirt pattern for wovens. It looks so polished and dressy but leaves so much room for movement for active little girls. The options are very useful for creating a variety of looks from dressy to a polished everyday style. It is also great for a classy look for women – I’m hoping to try out that option soon.” – Emily Nunes, sewandtellproject.com/author/eriedearie

“I like the clean finishes inside and out. At first it seems like you are doing things backwards but it all comes together in the end. There are tons of options in this pattern and it truly can be used year-round. I didn’t think I would make more than 1 or 2 of these but I am looking forward to making a few more for myself and of course some for my girls.” – Tasha Gray, www.sewnatseams.com

“I’m so proud of my pleats! I love the beautiful french seams. I also love that the pattern includes two pieces of clothing. The pattern is lovely, flattering on curvy silhouettes. So many looks possible with those two pieces! Love it!” – Gabrielle Lamothe

“If you’re looking to expand your skills/techniques (zip, button, French seams), this is the pattern to try! Once you perfect this skirt, you will be much more confident in your next project. Also, it’s a great gateway into knits. And don’t even get me started on the add-ons – you could easily build an entire wardrobe off this one pattern.” – Rebecca Petty

“This is such a great way to make pleats! It really makes sense the way Rebecca has done it. There are so many options. You can truly design your ideal outfit. It’s on trend and yet is such a classic style that this pattern will be one to reach for again and again.” – Jennifer Lichak, www.inspiredbyamara.blogspot.com

“Don’t be afraid of the pleats. The pattern walks you through how to do them, and as always, Mummykins & Me teaches you how to be a better seamstress.” – Meredith Simmons, www.homemaderunner.com

“It made me feel confident in myself. It is a incredibly rewarding sew. Not only as a seamstress, but as a woman… it is a complex pattern that is made simple for anyone to sew, and the finished quality and product is designer quality. Totally high end boutique piece… it was a head turner in public! You will feel like a movie star wearing this pattern when you have completed sewing it.” – Lauren Sisk, avaryrosedesigns.bigcartel.com

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 6

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 6

Hi everyone! Today is the last day of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie sew along. We will sew the hood on, the cuffs and band, and talk about the finishing touches. After today, you have until the October 30th to sew your hoodie and post photos on Facebook and Instagram with #comfycowlhoodiesal. Read all about our sponsors, the contest and prizes in the Introduction post.

Cuffs and Band

Alright! Now that we sewed in our arms and sides, your hoodie is ready for the cuffs and band. The method is exactly the same for both and you will see it’s really a quick and easy one.

First, fold the cuffs in half lengthwise, right side to right side. Stitch or serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. If you are using a serger, press the seam to one side, if you are using a regular sewing machine, press the seam open. Put aside.

cuffs-1

Fold your waistband the same way, right side to right side, to create a large loop. Press like you did for the cuffs.

band-1

Fold the cuffs and band in half, wrong side to wrong side, using the fold line mark on your pattern pieces. It will create two small loops. Press.

folding-the-cuffs

folded-cuffs-2

Before moving on to the next step, just to be safe, try the cuff on your model’s hand to make sure that the cuff will pass easily. This is especially important on very small children (between newborn and size 3-4) and if you are using a fabric with less stretch. Also, if you happen to have added length to the bands and cuffs from the start, it will be the time to make any adjustments necessary.

Repeat for the band and create a large loop. Press.

folded-waistband

You might get the impression that the cuffs and bands are really small compared to the openings of the sleeves and body but don’t worry! If you used a knit fabric with the appropriate stretch it will fit just fine. For more details about the proper fabrics to use, read DAY 2.

Next, find the quarter points on your cuffs and band and mark them with pins. On the smaller sizes, you can get away with marking the halves instead of the quarters.

cuffs-quarter-points

band-quarter-points

Repeat the process to find the sleeves and body quarter points. Mark with pins. Just like the cuffs, you can get away with marking the halves on the sleeve instead of the quarters

 

body-quarter-points

Working from the right side of the sleeve, place one folded cuff over the end of one sleeve and align the raw edges, matching the pins. Because of the way the cuff is folded, there is no right and wrong side so it really doesn’t matter which way you put it. The only thing you will want to worry about is to match the cuff seam with the sleeve seam. Once it is all pined, have a peek inside to make sure your seam is properly aligned.

missing-photo

missing-2

Gently stretch the cuff over the arm opening while sewing.  Turn the cuff right way out and press carefully. Because the ribbing is smaller than the arm, your seam might get a little wavy. Don’t worry if this happens, it will get better with a good press and steam.

cuff-in-sleeve

band-on-body

Repeat all the steps of the cuff to attach the waistband. Again, once it is sewn, you might see some waves at the seam. Press the waistband down carefully with a lot of steam.

pressed-waistband

You can see on my photo that my fabric is still a little wet from the steam! Once it is pressed, the waves won’t come back after washes.

Sewing the hood and finishing touches

Before we sew the hood in you will need to decide if you want to add a drawstring or a faux drawstring. The instructions to add a drawstring are not included in the child pattern because of safety issues. Most countries have regulations about drawstring on child clothing. There is still a safe way if you like the look. It is possible to add a faux drawstring that doesn’t go all around your child’s neck. Instead of running through a casing around the hood, simply pass your drawstring from one buttonhole to the other (or grommets) and make sure to keep is short enough. For exemple, Canada, our regulation is 75mm or 2.5 inches long maximum.

This is how it looks from the wrong side and right side. From the right side, you really can’t tell that it’s a faux drawstring right?

cgnd0006

25-octobre-2016

On the women hoodie however, the cord or drawstring running all around the hood is highly recommended. The hood, having a special shape that drapes into a cowl has a large cut on the bias and the cord helps stabilise the hood opening, preventing it to get too wavy.

If you do a faux or real drawstring, you can do either buttonholes or use grommets. I recommend that you put a small piece of interfacing where you will put them to guaranty a long lasting garment.

There are no markings on the child’s pattern. Find the middle point of your hood (outside fabric) and mark with a pin or a washable marker.  From this point measure 1 inch on each side.  Mark the seam allowance of the top of the hood with a washable marker. The pattern instructs you to topstitch the hood later on 1 inch from the edge. You will want to center your markings between the seam allowance line and the topstitching line.

Sew your buttonholes or install your grommets as per manufacturer’s instructions.

hood-cord-2

The hood of the comfy cowl hoodie is of a particular shape to give the cowl effect around the neck. If it’s your first time sewing the Comfy Cowl Hoodie, take a look at the pattern piece to really understand how it is constructed.

Fold each of the hood and hood lining in half, right side to right side, and pin along the outside curved edge (center back seam). Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. If you are using a serger, press the seam on opposite sides while if you are using a regular sewing machine, press the seams open.

hood-exterior

hood-lining

Turn one hood piece right side out and leave one hood piece wrong side out. Insert the hood right side out into the hood wrong side out.

hood-insertion

Align both the raw edges and pin along the top of the hood.  Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance.

hood-and-lining-attached

hood-sewed

Turn right side out and press.

Tip: If using grommets, I find it easier to insert the drawstring or faux drawstring at this step before topstitching around the hood. Topstitch the hood opening 1 inch from the edge using a twin needle.

hood-topstitching

To install the hood on the neck, we will proceed the same way we did for the cuffs and band. Mark the quarter points of the hood and neck.

hood-quarter-points

With the body wrong side out and the hood right side out, place the hood inside the garment and align the back seam of the hood with the center back of the neck. The hood and hood lining will be right sides together.

hood-onto-body

Continue to match the quarter points of the hood and neck and pin. Then continue to match the hood with the neckline gently stretching the fabric in the process so it matches all nicely.

hood-into-body-pinned

Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. Make sure that you are sewing through all 3 layers. Turn the garment right side out, pulling the hood out.

hood-sewn

 

final

Press your hoodie carefully one last time and give yourself a round of applause! Congratulations on sewing a Comfy Cowl Hoodie!!!

You still have 2 more days to sew before I randomly pick the winners, so good luck everyone! Remember that you can access to all the sew along posts on the Mummykins and Me website.

blue-raccoon-hoodie-m2

Raspberry Creek Fabrics  Frollein S Fabrics

 

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 5

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 5

Hi everyone! Today, we will sew the shoulders and sides and I am going to show you an alternative way to sew the arms in.

Note: I am sewing the hoodie on my serger, but you can certainly sew on a regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch. If you do, stitch using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and trim the seam to 1/4 inch.

Optional: finish your seams with a serger or finish the seam on your regular sewing machine with a zig zag stitch or mock overlock. For more details about sewing knits on a regular sewing machine, read DAY 3 of the sew along.

Pattern method: set in sleeve

This is the method that was used in the original instructions of the pattern. Use the method you are the most comfortable with, both are great!

First, place the FRONT and BACK right sides together and stitch/serge the shoulders and side seams using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seams toward the back.

shoulders-and-sides

Fold the SLEEVE in half, right sides together. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat with the other sleeve.

sleeve1

Then, turn the sleeve right side out and mark the quarter points with pins. On the smaller sizes, you can mark only the halves (arm seam and top of sleeve cap). Mark the quarters or halves of the armhole on the bodice the same way with pins.

sleeve-3

With the bodice wrong side out and the sleeve right side out, place the sleeve into the armscye matching the shoulder seam with the top pin and the arm seam with the side seam. Optional: continue to pin all around the armscye. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.

sleeve-4

sleeve-5

If you are using a knit fabric that doesn’t stretch much, you might need to ease stitch the sleeve first before inserting it. Ease stitching will help distribute the extra ease of the sleeve around the armhole.

To do this, sew a row of basting stitches (long loose stitches) just inside the 3/8 inch seam allowance along the sleeve caps (the curve of the sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting stitches in between the seam allowance and the raw edge. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end. Leave a thread tail at both ends. Pin the seam, right sides together, starting at the underarm seam. When you reach your basting stitches, pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the armhole of the bodice. Sew the seam with the tiny gathers side on top making sure that there are no puckers. The arm will show very small gathers inside the seam allowance and none outside. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second arm.

basting-stiches

ease-stitching

Alternative option: sewing the arms flat

First, place the front and back right sides together and stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press towards the back.

shoulders

Open the shoulders flat on your table and match the middle point of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam right sides facing.  Pin.

shoulder-flat-2

Match up both corners of the sleeve to the sides and pin.

sleeves-flat-3

Ease the sleeve around the armscye and pin. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.

shoulders-flat-3

 

Finally, with the fabric right side to right side, pin the sleeve and side seam making sure to match the underarm seam. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and press.

shoulders-flat-4

 

That’s it for the shoulders, arms and sides, I hope your sewing is going well! Tomorrow, I will be back with the hood, cuffs, band and finishing touches. See you soon!

Remember you can still buy the pattern on sale for all duration of the sew along. It’s available in child’s and ladies’ sizes as well as in a bundle. Buy your pattern HERE.

 

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 4

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 4

Hi and welcome to day 4 of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along! Now that we talked about size, fit, fabrics and tips, we are ready to get started! If you missed the previous posts, first check the welcome post for details about our sponsors and prizes.

*Note:  I will show you the steps using a child’s hoodie but if you are sewing for yourself or another adult, all the steps are the same.

Today, we will sew the optional pocket on the front of the hoodie.  There are a few things you will want to think about. Do you want your pocket lined or not? Do you want to use a contrasting fabric? If you are using your main fabric, do you want to match the print on the front?  Do you actually want a pocket at all?

Cut your pocket

LINED and UNLINED options

To find the correct position to place the pocket you can use your FRONT pattern piece and transfer the markings with a washable pen or chalk. There are many ways to do this but I like to punch a hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark the fabric.

Another very simple way would be to find your middle front by folding your FRONT piece in half and press. Mark the fold with a pin. Repeat to locate the pocket middle point.  Line the pocket bottom edge with the front bottom edge aligning the pins.

pocket-on-front-1

Matching the print

If you want to match the print on the pocket and body, you need to decide this before cutting into your fabric. First cut your FRONT piece on the fold, wrong side to wrong side, and keep it folded.  Move your folded edge on your fabric until your print is matched.

matching-pocket-1

Align your pocket piece facing the front piece and trace around the pocket with a washable pen or chalk.

matching-pocket-2

Remove the front piece and reverse the pocket piece so it’s now creating a complete pocket.  Trace around the pocket and cut.

matching-pocket-4

You should now have a perfect matching pocket.

matching-pocket-5

 

Pocket: Unlined option

If your fabric is very soft and cozy on the wrong side like a stretch sweatshirt fleece, you might want to keep your pocket unlined.

First, omit cutting a pocket lining and cut 1 pocket in the fabric you want to use (main or contrasting fabric).

Optional: before cutting your fabric, add 3/8 inch to the seam allowance (side, diagonal and top edge). I would recommend this step especially with heavier fabrics because it will make the turn under from the next step much easier and allow for more stability when topstitching.

additionnal-seam-allowance-pocket

Fold the diagonal edge 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press.

unlined-pocket-1

From the right side of the pocket, topstitch both diagonals at 1/8 and ¼ inch from the edge. Do not stitch all the way to the edge. Start and stop about ¼ inch from the folded edges so you can later join your stitches all around. Use a twin needle if you wish to sew your two rows at the same time.

Tip: If you use a twin needle, do not backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitches. Pull the thread under and tie a knot with all three threads. Do not cut your thread too close to the knot or it might untied. This method will give you a much nicer finish!

*Note: We are topstiching the pocket the same for both lined and unlined option.

unlined-pocket-2

pocket-tying-the-threads

Turn the top and sides 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press

unlined-pocket-3

Pocket: Lined Option

If you choose to line your pocket, place your pocket and pocket lining with their right sides together. Sew all around the sides, diagonals and top, leaving the bottom of the pocket open.

lined-pocket-1

Clip the corners off and trim the seam allowance in half. Be careful to not cut through your stitches!

lined-pocket-2

lined-pocket-3

Turn the pocket right side out and press carefully.

lined-pocket-4

* Topstitch both diagonal sides the same way as the unlined option.

lined-pocket-5

 

For lined and unlined options:

Pin or baste you pocket on your front. Instead of pins, I personally like to use a wash-away double sided tape such as Wonder Tape. If your fabric is thin and tend to stretch while you sew, the tape will help stabilise and prevent your fabric from waving while holding your pocket in place.

Topstitch your pocket sides and top. Try to start your stitches exactly where you stopped when topstitching the diagonals. The more precise you are, the more your topstitching will appear continuous all around the pocket.

sewing-the-pocket

Voila! Congratulations on stitching a beautiful pocket! Come back tomorrow, we will assemble the shoulders and sides and sew the arms in two ways.

Grab the Comfy Cowl Hoodie pattern on sale until October 28 HERE!Comfy Cowl Hoodie PDF Sewing Pattern

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