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HACK: The Teatime Romper – Pleat Detail

Hey all! Jeanine here today to show you how I got the pleat detail front on the top!

There is the easy way – and the much harder and more confusing way that you use if you are tight on fabric and home bound thanks to a blizzard.

First off, you’ll need the Teatime Romper sewing pattern. If you haven’t got it yet, you can get it from –

Let’s start with the very easy way to get pleat room – Add 3-4 inches to the top of the pattern piece – or more if you want a LOT of pleats… but honestly since the Teatime Romper is a gathered front I think keeping the pleats to just a handful is optimal.

and then you fold and iron, fold and iron until you get down to where the romper front is the height of the original pattern piece.

**I strongly recommend sewing the pleats down on the inside – where you won’t see the stitching from the front so they don’t go all poofed out when you thread the elastic through for the front.

Then do a basting stitch along the sides of your pleats to keep them down.

The hard way is cutting a separate rectangle that is 5 inches tall, pleating it down to 3 and cutting 3″ off the top of the bodice front. Did that confuse you? It made my brain hurt just trying to type it – but at the time I was able to visualize it so easily. I took pics since it shows the pleating cleaner.

And then basted down the sides and sewn on.

With a little trim to hide the fact that I added on a section for the pleats instead of doing things the proper way and cutting it longer to pleat. Just goes to show you there is indeed more than one way to (metaphorically) skin a cat… What a horrible saying that is …. If you have a better one for me to use – please – leave a comment!

Once again, just to be clear, sew those pleats down!!!! Otherwise they will become lost once the elastic is in place!

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Free Animal Pillow Pattern

Kids will absolutely love these cute and cozy little pillows from this free animal pillow pattern!


These fun, easy to make pillows are the perfect size to use fat quarters, or material left over from other projects. Embroidered (or painted) facial features mean these pillows remain cozy to snuggle with.  These pillows close up with a ladder stitch for a clean finish. Not sure how to sew a ladder stitch? Fear not! This tutorial will show you how it’s done.

This tutorial is only a baseline to start with. Get creative! Play around with different facial features. Embellish your pillows with ribbon or lace. Use yarn to give them hair or add a bow. Make them look like zombies (for the boys!). Whatever your heart desires!


To download your pattern pieces and full tutorial, click here:


  • Quilting cotton (or any other woven fabric similar in weight) is perfect for this project
  • Poly-Fill (stuffing)
  • *Optional: Ribbon, lace, embroidery floss or fabric paint (for facial features)

3/8in Seam Allowance included

Preparation – Use the provided pattern pieces as a guide to cut out your material. The butterfly, kitty and bunny are all cut on the fold. The bird is not. You will need to cut 2 of each piece– a front piece and a back piece (mirror them for the bird). Be sure to transfer markings for facial features and openings as well.

Tip: To transfer the eyes, use an embroidery needle or the tip of a seam ripper to poke holes along the lines. Place pattern into position on fabric piece and color with chalk or a fabric marker. Remove pattern piece and connect the dots. If using a marker, I recommend doing this on the ‘wrong’ side of the fabric so your makings don’t show up on the final product.


STEP 1 – Decoration

The sky is the limit, you can decorate the pillows as much or as little as you want. Here’s some ideas of how I did the ones on the cover of this pattern.

1.1 Start by embroidering your eyes & nose.

I’ve used a simple backstitch to embroider the eyes and nose, but you could use whatever your favorite stitch is. Or even paint them on with fabric paint (following manufacturer’s instructions).

Note – The butterfly does not have any embroidery markings.

1.2 For the Bird: If adding tail feathers for the bird – Cut a length of ribbon approx. 18in long. Loop the ribbon 3 times and use a pin (or baste) to hold it together. Pin the ‘tail’ upside down on the front of the bird piece according to the pattern markings. Baste into place.

1.3 For the Butterfly: If adding lace – Run a strip of lace down the middle of the butterfly and sew into place.

1.4 For the Butterfly antennae – Cut a piece of ribbon about 7in long. Tie knot on both ends. Fold ribbon in half.

Optional – Singe the ends of the ribbon with a lighter to keep them from fraying.

Pin upside down to the top, center front of butterfly.

STEP 2 – Assembly

2.1 Pin your back piece on top of your front piece, right sides together.

2.2 Sew, using a 3/8in seam allowance. Start from one end of the opening and work around to the other end of opening.

TIP – Be sure to tuck in bird feathers so as not to sew them into the seam allowance.

TIP – To get a nice, clean point, I find it easier to sew an ‘X’ rather than sewing a continuous line and pivoting.

2.3 Clip your seam allowance around the curves and on the points (take care not to cut through your stitching). Fold right side out and press.

STEP 3 – Fill and Close

Use Poly Fill to stuff your pillow to desired ‘fluff-ness’.

Use an invisible ladder stitch (also called a blind stitch) to close opening. If you’ve never done a ladder stitch, don’t worry it’s super easy. Here’s how:

3.1 Thread your needle with matching thread and tie ends together in a knot.

3.2 Now, insert needle up through the seam allowance. This will keep your knot hidden inside the pillow.

3.3 Bring needle directly across to the other side of the opening. Insert your needle and run through the fold of your seam allowance about 1/8 of an inch. Move needle to opposite side again and run through seam allowance 1/8 in. Pull tight. Notice how it resembles a ladder? Repeat until you reach the end. Tie off your stitch and run the excess thread through the inside of the pillow to hide the knot.


To download your pattern pieces and full tutorial, click here:

Fancy trying a zombie version of the Cute Animal Pillows? Check out Amy’s zombie version on her blog!

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Fabric for your Paris Party Dress

Here’s some fabric inspiration for your Paris Party Dress…. because you know… you never have enough fabric!

To help tempt you in your purchases, fabric requirements are at the bottom of the post. You need knit for the top, and a mid-weight woven for the skirt. Your stash can thank me later 😉

Have fun!

Rebecca & The Mummykins Team xoxo

PS… You can get your free Paris Party Dress from here. The $6.50 add-on from here.

Paris Party Dress – Top

Knit, or if you get the add-on you can do stretch lace

Valentines isn’t far off & this cotton jersey from Frollein S has my heart <3

And it comes in turquoise too, yes please! –

You’ve got to be fast to snag exclusive custom knits from but oh they’re worth it. I can just see this cotton lycra with a pale pink woven skirt <3 Yes please! –

I’ve adore the stretch lace overlay option in the add-on. From Raspberry Creek Fabrics, this is totally fabric-temptation-tastic –

Gorgeous. Just gorgeous. Need I say more? Punkin Head Threads –

And….. gold sparkles!

I also loooove the knits at Rumpled Stitching and Orinoco Designs. They’re both custom knit groups which  means you’ve got to watch upcoming order rounds and grab them while they’re available!

Paris Party Dress – Skirt

Woven. Can be pleated all the way around with a zip, or if you get the add-on too it can have an elastic waist

I LOVE this print. It’s cotton so I recommend using this with the lining option in the add-on. Gorgeous –

This is an Indigo Blue Double Gauze Chambray. Beautiful –

I can so see this one from Hawthorne Threads as the print for the front of the skirt, with a plain black, pink or teal back <3

I’m a sucker for a pretty print and this totally has me!

A skirt out of this? Yes please! It’s cotton so again I would line it using the add-on. Can just see it with a white lining and white netting…. maybe even with the ribbon hem add-on option too!

Can you tell I’m into florals and border prints right now? Ahhhhh


So what other fabrics are you thinking of? Let us know in the comments below!

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A little Xmas Freebie for you 💖

A little bit of festive love has just arrived at the Mummykins and Me PDF Pattern Group!

Introducing this year’s Mummykins Big Xmas Freebie, The Paris Party Dress <3

Top is knit/stretch fabrics only. It’s semi-fitted and has a beautifully bound neckline. Options include: scoop & boat neck options, crop or full length hem, and short, ¾ or full length sleeves.

Skirt is woven fabrics only and has all the raw edges hidden. It has a center back zip closure with either buttons or snaps. Featuring large box pleats, high or regular waistband, optional pockets and above knee, knee or tea length options.

Comes in girls sizes newborn to 12 years, and ladies sizes XXS to 5XL.

Plus, there’s a jam-packed add-on!

Add-on is $6.50 and includes options of a simple t-shirt neckline, puff sleeves, gathered cap sleeves, lace top overlay, elastic back waistband (no zip), attaching the skirt & top together so it’s a dress, lining for the skirt, a tulle petticoat, and a ribbon hemline.


The main ladies & child’s pattern is FREE to our Facebook group members only. Coupon code is in the pinned post.

Join the Mummykins and Me Facebook Group HERE and get it FREE!

Get the add-on at


Happy sewing & lots of festive love from the Mummykins Team xx

Here’s what some of our testers had to say…

“This is an incredibly flattering outfit with a classic and elegant shape which suits a wide variety of body shapes. Incredibly well written instructions helps you achieve a highly professional finish with ease. It is not simply a pattern you will make again, this is a pattern you will use to fill your entire wardrobe! The binding was a new method for me but I loved it! I also loved how clear the instructions were resulting in quite possibly the most perfect box pleats and lapped zip I have ever created (and I didn’t have to seam rip once!)” – Amy Myers,

“The finished skirt makes me feel accomplished! I want to show it off to everyone. I’ve been telling people that your patterns really make me feel like a great seamstress, even though I haven’t been doing this very long. I always feel accomplished because the finished product is always beautiful.” – Tricia Cerda

“This is seriously my new favorite skirt pattern for wovens. It looks so polished and dressy but leaves so much room for movement for active little girls. The options are very useful for creating a variety of looks from dressy to a polished everyday style. It is also great for a classy look for women – I’m hoping to try out that option soon.” – Emily Nunes,

“I like the clean finishes inside and out. At first it seems like you are doing things backwards but it all comes together in the end. There are tons of options in this pattern and it truly can be used year-round. I didn’t think I would make more than 1 or 2 of these but I am looking forward to making a few more for myself and of course some for my girls.” – Tasha Gray,

“I’m so proud of my pleats! I love the beautiful french seams. I also love that the pattern includes two pieces of clothing. The pattern is lovely, flattering on curvy silhouettes. So many looks possible with those two pieces! Love it!” – Gabrielle Lamothe

“If you’re looking to expand your skills/techniques (zip, button, French seams), this is the pattern to try! Once you perfect this skirt, you will be much more confident in your next project. Also, it’s a great gateway into knits. And don’t even get me started on the add-ons – you could easily build an entire wardrobe off this one pattern.” – Rebecca Petty

“This is such a great way to make pleats! It really makes sense the way Rebecca has done it. There are so many options. You can truly design your ideal outfit. It’s on trend and yet is such a classic style that this pattern will be one to reach for again and again.” – Jennifer Lichak,

“Don’t be afraid of the pleats. The pattern walks you through how to do them, and as always, Mummykins & Me teaches you how to be a better seamstress.” – Meredith Simmons,

“It made me feel confident in myself. It is a incredibly rewarding sew. Not only as a seamstress, but as a woman… it is a complex pattern that is made simple for anyone to sew, and the finished quality and product is designer quality. Totally high end boutique piece… it was a head turner in public! You will feel like a movie star wearing this pattern when you have completed sewing it.” – Lauren Sisk,

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 6

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 6

Hi everyone! Today is the last day of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie sew along. We will sew the hood on, the cuffs and band, and talk about the finishing touches. After today, you have until the October 30th to sew your hoodie and post photos on Facebook and Instagram with #comfycowlhoodiesal. Read all about our sponsors, the contest and prizes in the Introduction post.

Cuffs and Band

Alright! Now that we sewed in our arms and sides, your hoodie is ready for the cuffs and band. The method is exactly the same for both and you will see it’s really a quick and easy one.

First, fold the cuffs in half lengthwise, right side to right side. Stitch or serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. If you are using a serger, press the seam to one side, if you are using a regular sewing machine, press the seam open. Put aside.


Fold your waistband the same way, right side to right side, to create a large loop. Press like you did for the cuffs.


Fold the cuffs and band in half, wrong side to wrong side, using the fold line mark on your pattern pieces. It will create two small loops. Press.



Before moving on to the next step, just to be safe, try the cuff on your model’s hand to make sure that the cuff will pass easily. This is especially important on very small children (between newborn and size 3-4) and if you are using a fabric with less stretch. Also, if you happen to have added length to the bands and cuffs from the start, it will be the time to make any adjustments necessary.

Repeat for the band and create a large loop. Press.


You might get the impression that the cuffs and bands are really small compared to the openings of the sleeves and body but don’t worry! If you used a knit fabric with the appropriate stretch it will fit just fine. For more details about the proper fabrics to use, read DAY 2.

Next, find the quarter points on your cuffs and band and mark them with pins. On the smaller sizes, you can get away with marking the halves instead of the quarters.



Repeat the process to find the sleeves and body quarter points. Mark with pins. Just like the cuffs, you can get away with marking the halves on the sleeve instead of the quarters



Working from the right side of the sleeve, place one folded cuff over the end of one sleeve and align the raw edges, matching the pins. Because of the way the cuff is folded, there is no right and wrong side so it really doesn’t matter which way you put it. The only thing you will want to worry about is to match the cuff seam with the sleeve seam. Once it is all pined, have a peek inside to make sure your seam is properly aligned.



Gently stretch the cuff over the arm opening while sewing.  Turn the cuff right way out and press carefully. Because the ribbing is smaller than the arm, your seam might get a little wavy. Don’t worry if this happens, it will get better with a good press and steam.



Repeat all the steps of the cuff to attach the waistband. Again, once it is sewn, you might see some waves at the seam. Press the waistband down carefully with a lot of steam.


You can see on my photo that my fabric is still a little wet from the steam! Once it is pressed, the waves won’t come back after washes.

Sewing the hood and finishing touches

Before we sew the hood in you will need to decide if you want to add a drawstring or a faux drawstring. The instructions to add a drawstring are not included in the child pattern because of safety issues. Most countries have regulations about drawstring on child clothing. There is still a safe way if you like the look. It is possible to add a faux drawstring that doesn’t go all around your child’s neck. Instead of running through a casing around the hood, simply pass your drawstring from one buttonhole to the other (or grommets) and make sure to keep is short enough. For exemple, Canada, our regulation is 75mm or 2.5 inches long maximum.

This is how it looks from the wrong side and right side. From the right side, you really can’t tell that it’s a faux drawstring right?



On the women hoodie however, the cord or drawstring running all around the hood is highly recommended. The hood, having a special shape that drapes into a cowl has a large cut on the bias and the cord helps stabilise the hood opening, preventing it to get too wavy.

If you do a faux or real drawstring, you can do either buttonholes or use grommets. I recommend that you put a small piece of interfacing where you will put them to guaranty a long lasting garment.

There are no markings on the child’s pattern. Find the middle point of your hood (outside fabric) and mark with a pin or a washable marker.  From this point measure 1 inch on each side.  Mark the seam allowance of the top of the hood with a washable marker. The pattern instructs you to topstitch the hood later on 1 inch from the edge. You will want to center your markings between the seam allowance line and the topstitching line.

Sew your buttonholes or install your grommets as per manufacturer’s instructions.


The hood of the comfy cowl hoodie is of a particular shape to give the cowl effect around the neck. If it’s your first time sewing the Comfy Cowl Hoodie, take a look at the pattern piece to really understand how it is constructed.

Fold each of the hood and hood lining in half, right side to right side, and pin along the outside curved edge (center back seam). Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. If you are using a serger, press the seam on opposite sides while if you are using a regular sewing machine, press the seams open.



Turn one hood piece right side out and leave one hood piece wrong side out. Insert the hood right side out into the hood wrong side out.


Align both the raw edges and pin along the top of the hood.  Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance.



Turn right side out and press.

Tip: If using grommets, I find it easier to insert the drawstring or faux drawstring at this step before topstitching around the hood. Topstitch the hood opening 1 inch from the edge using a twin needle.


To install the hood on the neck, we will proceed the same way we did for the cuffs and band. Mark the quarter points of the hood and neck.


With the body wrong side out and the hood right side out, place the hood inside the garment and align the back seam of the hood with the center back of the neck. The hood and hood lining will be right sides together.


Continue to match the quarter points of the hood and neck and pin. Then continue to match the hood with the neckline gently stretching the fabric in the process so it matches all nicely.


Stitch/serge using a 3/8’’ seam allowance. Make sure that you are sewing through all 3 layers. Turn the garment right side out, pulling the hood out.




Press your hoodie carefully one last time and give yourself a round of applause! Congratulations on sewing a Comfy Cowl Hoodie!!!

You still have 2 more days to sew before I randomly pick the winners, so good luck everyone! Remember that you can access to all the sew along posts on the Mummykins and Me website.


Raspberry Creek Fabrics  Frollein S Fabrics


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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 5

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 5

Hi everyone! Today, we will sew the shoulders and sides and I am going to show you an alternative way to sew the arms in.

Note: I am sewing the hoodie on my serger, but you can certainly sew on a regular sewing machine with a stretch stitch. If you do, stitch using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and trim the seam to 1/4 inch.

Optional: finish your seams with a serger or finish the seam on your regular sewing machine with a zig zag stitch or mock overlock. For more details about sewing knits on a regular sewing machine, read DAY 3 of the sew along.

Pattern method: set in sleeve

This is the method that was used in the original instructions of the pattern. Use the method you are the most comfortable with, both are great!

First, place the FRONT and BACK right sides together and stitch/serge the shoulders and side seams using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seams toward the back.


Fold the SLEEVE in half, right sides together. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Repeat with the other sleeve.


Then, turn the sleeve right side out and mark the quarter points with pins. On the smaller sizes, you can mark only the halves (arm seam and top of sleeve cap). Mark the quarters or halves of the armhole on the bodice the same way with pins.


With the bodice wrong side out and the sleeve right side out, place the sleeve into the armscye matching the shoulder seam with the top pin and the arm seam with the side seam. Optional: continue to pin all around the armscye. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.



If you are using a knit fabric that doesn’t stretch much, you might need to ease stitch the sleeve first before inserting it. Ease stitching will help distribute the extra ease of the sleeve around the armhole.

To do this, sew a row of basting stitches (long loose stitches) just inside the 3/8 inch seam allowance along the sleeve caps (the curve of the sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting stitches in between the seam allowance and the raw edge. Do not backstitch at the beginning and end. Leave a thread tail at both ends. Pin the seam, right sides together, starting at the underarm seam. When you reach your basting stitches, pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the armhole of the bodice. Sew the seam with the tiny gathers side on top making sure that there are no puckers. The arm will show very small gathers inside the seam allowance and none outside. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second arm.



Alternative option: sewing the arms flat

First, place the front and back right sides together and stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press towards the back.


Open the shoulders flat on your table and match the middle point of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam right sides facing.  Pin.


Match up both corners of the sleeve to the sides and pin.


Ease the sleeve around the armscye and pin. Because we are sewing a knit fabric with some stretch, there is no need to ease stitch as it will nicely stretch into place easily. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the arm and away from the shoulder. Repeat for the second sleeve.



Finally, with the fabric right side to right side, pin the sleeve and side seam making sure to match the underarm seam. Stitch/serge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and press.



That’s it for the shoulders, arms and sides, I hope your sewing is going well! Tomorrow, I will be back with the hood, cuffs, band and finishing touches. See you soon!

Remember you can still buy the pattern on sale for all duration of the sew along. It’s available in child’s and ladies’ sizes as well as in a bundle. Buy your pattern HERE.


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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 4

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 4

Hi and welcome to day 4 of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along! Now that we talked about size, fit, fabrics and tips, we are ready to get started! If you missed the previous posts, first check the welcome post for details about our sponsors and prizes.

*Note:  I will show you the steps using a child’s hoodie but if you are sewing for yourself or another adult, all the steps are the same.

Today, we will sew the optional pocket on the front of the hoodie.  There are a few things you will want to think about. Do you want your pocket lined or not? Do you want to use a contrasting fabric? If you are using your main fabric, do you want to match the print on the front?  Do you actually want a pocket at all?

Cut your pocket

LINED and UNLINED options

To find the correct position to place the pocket you can use your FRONT pattern piece and transfer the markings with a washable pen or chalk. There are many ways to do this but I like to punch a hole with a pin through the paper where I want to mark the fabric.

Another very simple way would be to find your middle front by folding your FRONT piece in half and press. Mark the fold with a pin. Repeat to locate the pocket middle point.  Line the pocket bottom edge with the front bottom edge aligning the pins.


Matching the print

If you want to match the print on the pocket and body, you need to decide this before cutting into your fabric. First cut your FRONT piece on the fold, wrong side to wrong side, and keep it folded.  Move your folded edge on your fabric until your print is matched.


Align your pocket piece facing the front piece and trace around the pocket with a washable pen or chalk.


Remove the front piece and reverse the pocket piece so it’s now creating a complete pocket.  Trace around the pocket and cut.


You should now have a perfect matching pocket.



Pocket: Unlined option

If your fabric is very soft and cozy on the wrong side like a stretch sweatshirt fleece, you might want to keep your pocket unlined.

First, omit cutting a pocket lining and cut 1 pocket in the fabric you want to use (main or contrasting fabric).

Optional: before cutting your fabric, add 3/8 inch to the seam allowance (side, diagonal and top edge). I would recommend this step especially with heavier fabrics because it will make the turn under from the next step much easier and allow for more stability when topstitching.


Fold the diagonal edge 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press.


From the right side of the pocket, topstitch both diagonals at 1/8 and ¼ inch from the edge. Do not stitch all the way to the edge. Start and stop about ¼ inch from the folded edges so you can later join your stitches all around. Use a twin needle if you wish to sew your two rows at the same time.

Tip: If you use a twin needle, do not backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitches. Pull the thread under and tie a knot with all three threads. Do not cut your thread too close to the knot or it might untied. This method will give you a much nicer finish!

*Note: We are topstiching the pocket the same for both lined and unlined option.



Turn the top and sides 3/8 inch under (or ¾ inch if you enlarged the seam allowance). Press


Pocket: Lined Option

If you choose to line your pocket, place your pocket and pocket lining with their right sides together. Sew all around the sides, diagonals and top, leaving the bottom of the pocket open.


Clip the corners off and trim the seam allowance in half. Be careful to not cut through your stitches!



Turn the pocket right side out and press carefully.


* Topstitch both diagonal sides the same way as the unlined option.



For lined and unlined options:

Pin or baste you pocket on your front. Instead of pins, I personally like to use a wash-away double sided tape such as Wonder Tape. If your fabric is thin and tend to stretch while you sew, the tape will help stabilise and prevent your fabric from waving while holding your pocket in place.

Topstitch your pocket sides and top. Try to start your stitches exactly where you stopped when topstitching the diagonals. The more precise you are, the more your topstitching will appear continuous all around the pocket.


Voila! Congratulations on stitching a beautiful pocket! Come back tomorrow, we will assemble the shoulders and sides and sew the arms in two ways.

Grab the Comfy Cowl Hoodie pattern on sale until October 28 HERE!Comfy Cowl Hoodie PDF Sewing Pattern

Visit our sponsors Frollein S and Raspberry Creek Fabrics!

Frollein S Fabrics

Raspberry Creek Fabrics

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 3

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 3

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 21 Photo 1


Welcome to day 3 of the Mummykins and Me Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along! Today I will share with you some basic tips about sewing with knit fabrics. If you are very experienced with knits, just scroll down to find out my favourite picks among all kinds of fabric from our sponsors. If you are new to sewing knits, go grab a coffee or tea and get comfortable because things are about to get serious.

Ahah! Did I worry you? No need. Let me share with you a big secret: knits are not scary or difficult to work with!

Yep! You heard me! True, you will need to use different tools to get the best results, but once you learn the basics, you will find out that knits are actually easier to work with than wovens. My first advice to you? Read my tips, experiment and play around with different fabrics and stitches!

N’oubliez pas que si le sew-along se déroule simultanément, en français, sur le blogue Élégantine!

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 21 Photo 2

Needles and pins

Use a ball point, stretch or jersey needle of an appropriate size for your fabric. All of these have a rounded tip and they will prevent from damaging the fiber. The rounded tip will push through the loops of the fabric while a regular needle will pierce little holes. Using a regular needle, with time and wear, your fabric will likely tear around the seams. For the same reason, use ball point pins or clips (if you don’t have fancy fabric clips, paper clips work great). If these are not available to you, use regular pins but keep them into the seam allowance.


Always use a stretch stitch when sewing with knits. If your seam doesn’t stretch with your fabric, your stitches will snap. For construction, you can use a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (often referred as a lightning bolt stitch). Both are great but experiment to find out which one you prefer with different fabrics and play with length and width of the stitches to get used to it. Personally, I always use a regular short and narrow zigzag because it stitches faster and it’s easier to remove if you need to. Make sure your seams are stretching properly.

Walking foot

A walking foot is a fancy little tool to add to your sewing box if you consider sewing with knits a lot. It’s not necessary but it is highly recommended. Also, you won’t use it only on knits because it’s a great tool to have when working with heavy or sticky wovens. It’s also super handy when working with stripes or plaids. What is it for? The walking foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers are fed at the same time under your needle. It means that your fabric will not get wavy under your stitches.

Lower your tension

If you don’t have access to a walking foot, it doesn’t mean your fabric will get wavy. Some machines will allow you to reduce your presser foot tension (check your manual to see how). Also you can sew a few stitches, stop with the needle down, raise your presser foot to release tension and lower it down to continue sewing.

Press, don’t iron

Pressing will become your best friend. Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric. Pressing will prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape and if it’s a little wavy after your sewing, using a combination of steam and pressing will help your seam.

My fabric picks

Now, let’s have a look at my favourite picks from our sponsors!

It was really difficult to narrow down my favourites from Frollein S Fabrics because there are so many choices!

In summer, a medium weight cotton lycra jersey will be perfect for those cooler nights. I chose my boy and girl favourites from Frollein S.

Frollein S Fabrics Raccoon Dreams Teal

For boys, Raccoon Dreams by Annika Nykänen for Selia.

Frollein S Fabrics pink Clover by Graziela

For girls, pink Clover by Graziela.

Frollein S Fabrics Vikings and Dragons

If you like a warm but breathable hoodie, you will love using stretch French Terry like this one. It is all organic cotton with a 5% spandex and it will give you lots of stretch. This teal Vikings and Dragons French terry is amazing!

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 21 Photo 3

Another great choice for a warmer and cozier hoodie would be stretch sweater fleece which has a sweater type side and a cuddly plush side. It has between 3-5% of spandex and the fabric is bulky so you will want to take that into consideration when picking your size. It’s similar to my boy star hoodie pictured above. Since my son has a big head and the fabric has a little less give, I added 1 inch of ease around the neck opening.

Frollein S Fabrics Triangles and Emeralds

My favourite pick for a ladies hoodie is the Sweater fleece triangle emerald.

Make sure to check Frollein S selection of solid or printed cotton lycra ribbing.

Raspberry Creek Fabrics has some of my favourite ladies choices. Just look at the floral French terry from the Knit Club collection! They actually have a pre-order open until the end of October with gorgeous jerseys and French terry prints that would be perfect for your Comfy Cowl Hoodie.

Raspberry Creek Fabrics Aqua Yellow Pink and Grey Abstract Floral

Here’s my favourite Knit Club in their retail section. I always love a nice floral print.

Raspberry Creek Fabrics Black Coral and Blue Floral

Their Liverpool knit would also be a good choice of a more heavy weight fabric. Again, I am in love with the floral print.

They also have lots of medium weight jerseys from their Knit Club line, Art Gallery, Robert Kauffman and Riley Blake.

Now get ready and start shopping!

We will start sewing October 26. Remember, there’s still time to grab the pattern on sale HERE.

Follow this sew along in French on Élégantine!

Thank you to our sponsors!

Frollein S Fabrics

Raspberry Creek Fabrics

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Day 2

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Day 2

Happy Thursday and welcome back to Mummykins and Me Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along sponsored by Frollein S Fabrics and Raspberry Creek Fabrics! Today, we will talk about fabrics and how to pick the perfect size. If you missed day 1 with all the details about the sew-along and prizes you could win, click HERE.

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 20 Photo 1
Comfy Cowl Hoodie in French Terry

Choose your fabrics

One of the great things about the Comfy Cowl Hoodie is how versatile it is fabric-wise. You can use a lot of different types of knits to achieve different kinds of look. The most important thing to remember is that you need to use a knit with some stretch for your main fabric. It will work with almost any kind of knit fabrics, but you will get the best results using a medium weight fabric such as a jersey, a stretch French terry or a stretch sweatshirt fleece. Other heavier fabrics with less stretch, like fleece or sweatshirt will also work but make sure to size up! You will even want to enlarge the neck opening if you use a fabric without stretch. Don’t worry, this is a super simple adjustment and I will show you how.

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 20 Photo 2 - Sweater Fleece
Comfy Cowl Hoodie in Stretch Sweatshirt Fleece

For the bands and cuffs, my favourite choice is a ribbing fabric with a good stretch. Some ribbing will stretch up to 100% or even more. The stretchier, the better! Up to sizes 3-4, if you plan on using a fabric with less stretch than ribbing, you will need to lengthen the waist band and cuff bands. Start by using a 7/8 ratio and adjust as needed.

Pick up a size!

The secret for a perfect fit garment is to choose your size base on updated measurements. I will never insist enough on the fact that you need to MEASURE yourself or your child before you start. Do not use ready-to-wear size or actual age because you might have a very unpleasant surprise! Taking the extra time to measure every time will help you guarantee a better fit garment. For the Comfy Cowl Hoodie, you will need chest, waist and total height measurements for the child’s, plus hips, for the ladies only. Write them down and compare to the chart of the pattern (page 3 for both and page 6 for ladies height). If you or your child are between 2 sizes, go with the larger size and adjust as needed. The finished garment measurements, in the ladies pattern page 3, are also super helpful because it allows you to choose how much ease you want in your garment.


It’s very easy to lengthen or shorten to get a custom fit. Compare your height measurement to the chart. On the ladies version, adjust the hoodie using the shorten/lengthen cutting line. For the child’s, since the sides are straight, you can add or remove length directly at the bottom of the body. For both, if you are playing with length, don’t forget to check the sleeve length too!

Blending sizes

If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, you can easily blend the sizes if you want to shape the side seam for a custom fit. Simply print the sizes you need and gently blend from your bust to waist or hips as needed.

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 20 Photo 3
Blending sizes

Neck opening adjustment

As I mentioned earlier, you need to enlarge the neck opening and cowl if you chose a fabric with less stretch like me. It’s very simple to do but remember that you need to do the modification on paper before you cut into your fabric. If you use a fabric with no stretch at all, size up at least one size AND do a neck/hood adjustment. Here’s what you will need to do:

First cut your pattern according to your correct size. We will work on both front and back pieces as well as the hood. How much you will add will depend on your fabric stretch, weight and head size of your child. For example, I know that my boy has a larger (but how cute!) head and my fabric has some stretch but only 3% of lycra so I decided that 1 inch of ease would be enough. If I were to use a fabric with no stretch at all, with the head size of my boy, I would add 2 inches of ease. But if the same hoodie was intended for my daughter, who has a smaller head, I wouldn’t need to add ease at all.

Photo 4
Neck opening adjustment- Photo 1

Now, divide your extra ease by 4. In my case, it gives me ¼ inch. That’s what I’ll remove from the front and back of the shoulders like you see on Photo 1. Remember that you need to add ease to the hood opening too (both outside and lining fabrics), not just the neckline! Since the hood is cut on the fold, you will add half your needed ease. In my case, it gives me ½ inch that I am adding on the fold like you see on Photo 2.

Photo 5
Neck opening adjustment- Photo 2

See how simple this is? It makes world of a difference but remember that it is not needed every single time. If you are unsure, better to add a little ease than end up with a neck opening that is too small.

Don’t forget, you can still pick your pattern on sale HERE! Then head to Day 3 for tips on sewing with knits fabrics. After that, go crazy on fabric shopping and check back next week as we start sewing!

Fabrics used today:

Blue French terry, solid pink jersey and black ribbing from Frollein S Fabrics (Organic French Terry Sweater Knit Raccoon Blue). The grey stars stretch sweater fleece comes from a local shop but is similar to Frollein S Fabrics’ Happy Fleece Stars. Lastly, the brown organic sweater knit from Frollein S Fabrics.

Frollein S Fabrics

Raspberry Creek Fabrics

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Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along – Welcome

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along - Welcome

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Sew Along Oct 19 Photo 1


Hi, everyone! Welcome to a new Mummykins and Me Sew Along! We had so much fun sewing together last time so we decided we should do it again. If you missed the Berry Bubble Shorts Sew Along, don’t worry! All the posts are still available for you to enjoy. And if you are completely new to sew alongs, again, don’t stress. It’s really simple – we sew together, share tips and tricks, we do a lot of ohhhhs and ahhhhhs and, at the end, you can win Mummykins and Me patterns and fabric!


This time, we picked the crowd’s favorite – the Comfy Cowl Hoodie which is available in sizes newborn to 12 years old (boys and girls) and XXS to 5XL (ladies). Everyone is welcome to participate and sew as many hoodies as you wish!

Comfy Cowl Hoodie Comfy Cowl Hoodie Comfy Cowl Hoodie Comfy Cowl Hoodie

Starting tomorrow, we will cover fabric suggestions with picks from our sponsors, how to pick the perfect size and tips on how to sew with knit fabrics. Then, next week, we will sew together a few steps each day until we are all done. At the end, we will all brag about our gorgeous and unique hoodies, and post them on Facebook or Instagram with hashtag #comfycowlhoodiesal. On October 30, we will randomly choose 3 winners among the participants. Join me in the Mummykins and Me PDF pattern group on Facebook to ask questions and share your progress.

Good news! If you want to follow the sew-along in French, you totally can! Join me at Élégantine where I will be hosting simultaneously a ‘’Cousette-Jasette’’ around the Comfy Cowl Hoodie for all Mummykins and Me French fans.

Bonne nouvelle! Si vous souhaitez suivre le sew-along en français, c’est tout à fait possible! Rejoignez-moi sur mon blogue où j’animerai simultanément une Cousette-Jastte autour du Comfy Cowl Hoodie pour tous les fans francophones de Mummykins and Me.

Now, I bet you are all dying to know our generous sponsors and what the prizes are!

The first place winner will receive a $50 Frollein S Fabrics gift certificate along with three Mummykins & Me patterns of choice!


The second place winner will receive a $25 Raspberry Creek Fabrics gift certificate and two Mummykins & Me patterns of choice!


The third place winner will receive one Mummykins & Me pattern of choice!


If you haven’t picked up your copy of the Comfy Cowl Hoodie, go to the shop and grab the ladies and child’s on sale for only $6.50 each pattern or $9.00 in a bundle.

Now, get your pattern ready and then head to day 1 with fabric suggestions, tips and a tutorial!